I live in La Fortuna. I drive guests in and out every week, all year long. The short answer to "when should I visit": mid-December through April if you want guaranteed sunny weather, or May/June or September/October if you want to save 30–40% on hotels and don't mind afternoon rain.
Here's the full month-by-month breakdown.
January — Best month overall
- Weather: Dry season peak. Sunny days, clear volcano views almost daily. Daytime highs 28°C (82°F), nights 18°C (65°F). Maybe 1–2 brief rain showers all month.
- Crowds: Heaviest. New Year through mid-January is the peak of peak season — North Americans escaping winter, Europeans escaping rain.
- Prices: Highest of the year. Top hotels charge 2x what they do in October.
- Best for: First-time visitors who want guaranteed weather. Honeymooners.
- Book early: 3–6 months out for top hotels.
February — Great weather, slightly less crazy
- Weather: Identical to January. Sunny, dry, perfect.
- Crowds: Still high but no big holidays. Easier hotel availability than January.
- Prices: Same as January (high).
- Best for: Travelers who want January weather without the crowds.
March — The sweet spot
- Weather: Last full month of dry season. Sunny, slightly warmer than Jan/Feb. The grass starts to brown by late March.
- Crowds: Spring break travelers from the US peak in mid-March. Otherwise manageable.
- Prices: Still high but starting to soften by late month.
- Best for: Travelers who want dry weather without the peak holiday pricing.
April — Last dry month, getting hot
- Weather: Warm and dry through Easter. Easter Week (Semana Santa) is a Costa Rican holiday — locals travel, restaurants close, hotels fill with national tourists. Avoid that week if you can.
- Crowds: Moderate (excluding Semana Santa, when it's intense).
- Prices: Slight drop after Semana Santa.
- Best for: Late-season dry-weather travelers.
May — The shoulder season starts (and it's underrated)
- Weather: Rainy season officially starts but in La Fortuna it usually means sunny mornings, brief afternoon thunderstorm (2–4 PM), sunny evening. Mornings are gorgeous. The landscape turns vivid green again.
- Crowds: Way down. Hotels noticeably emptier.
- Prices: Drop 25–40% from peak.
- Best for: Budget travelers, families, people who like green landscapes. Plan activities for the morning.
June — Still great, fewer crowds
- Weather: Same pattern as May. Mornings dry, afternoons can rain.
- Crowds: Low. Almost no North American travelers (school's in).
- Prices: Low season rates fully in effect.
- Best for: Solo travelers, couples on a budget, photographers (green + dramatic clouds).
July — Surprise high season
- Weather: Less rain than June, oddly. The mid-rainy-season "veranillo" (little summer) often brings 1–2 weeks of dry weather.
- Crowds: Rises — European and North American summer holidays.
- Prices: Mid-season rates, 10–20% off peak.
- Best for: Summer travelers, families on school break.
August — Quiet again
- Weather: Returns to rainy pattern. Afternoon storms common.
- Crowds: Drops after first week of August.
- Prices: Low.
- Best for: Budget travelers.
September — Cheapest month of the year
- Weather: Rainiest month. Expect rain at any time of day, sometimes all-day downpours. Volcano often hidden in clouds.
- Crowds: Lowest of the year. Some hotels close briefly.
- Prices: Lowest of the year. Hotels often 50% off peak.
- Best for: Travelers who don't care about weather and want the best deals.
October — Still very wet but green and cheap
- Weather: Almost as rainy as September. Things bloom, waterfalls are at their fullest, white water rivers are at their best for rafting.
- Crowds: Low.
- Prices: Low.
- Best for: Adventure travelers (rafting), photographers.
November — Transition month
- Weather: Rain decreases throughout the month. By late November, you can have dry days again. The landscape is at its greenest.
- Crowds: Starting to rise mid-month.
- Prices: Mid-season, rising toward December.
- Best for: Smart travelers who want good weather without high-season prices.
December — Pre-Christmas is the secret
- Early December (1–15): Excellent weather, low crowds, mid-season prices. This is what I tell friends to book.
- Late December (16–31): Christmas/New Year peak. Sunny weather. Prices and crowds explode after December 20.
Volcano viewing tip
The volcano is fully visible most days from December through April. From May through November, it's often partially or fully cloud-covered, especially in the afternoon. Early morning (6–8 AM) is your best chance for a clear volcano view in any month.
What to do in rainy season
Don't avoid La Fortuna in rainy season — just plan around it. Schedule activities for mornings:
- 6–8 AM: Sunrise hike at Arenal Observatory Lodge (incredible views).
- 8–11 AM: Hot springs (yes, they're amazing in rain too — even better, actually).
- 11 AM–1 PM: Hanging bridges or waterfall.
- 2–5 PM: Spa, lunch, back to hotel during the storm.
- 5 PM onwards: Storms usually clear. Sunset views are dramatic.
When NOT to visit
- Semana Santa (Easter week): National holiday, everything books out and prices triple.
- Late September: If your trip is just 3–4 days and you really want sunny weather, the bet is bad.
- Christmas/New Year: Unless you book 6+ months in advance, you won't get good hotel availability.
My personal recommendation
For best value: early December or late November. Good weather, low crowds, mid-season prices.
For guaranteed dry weather: February.
For best deals: September or October if you don't mind rain.
For everyone else: January through March is the safe answer.